A real shock for the sector. The flagship of textiles made in France, Le Coq Sportif, was put into restitution on November 22. An inevitable outcome for this company that was in a precarious financial situation for several months, to the point of having difficulty honoring its contract as official supplier of the French delegation for the last Olympic Games. Therefore, more than 300 jobs are threatened in the country and subcontractors risk being weakened, as the domino effect recorded in the automobile industry in recent times.
Elsewhere, in France, the textile industry made in France is facing other warning points. This is shown by the example of Rautureau Apple Shoes, which has its origins in La Gaubretière (Vendée) since 1870. On its production site, banners appeared with slogans, ” Death of the made in France “, ” angry employees », signaling the upcoming closure of this factory dedicated to the production of the Free Lance brand. At least 29 jobs will be lost in the region.
” The company Rautureau Apple Shoes is forced to consider ceasing its production, production support and sales activities of shoes for the luxury brands Free Lance and JB Rautureau, which Sales have seen a 41% drop since 2019 “, specify the direction of the company via a press release.
Contacted by The Tribune to detail this decisionmanagement did not respond to our requests. However, the cut in staff numbers could be much larger. No less than 18 shops and corners of department stores, as well as two No Name and Schmoove shops may also close, affecting a total of 85 positions.
“The sector has been greatly affected by changes in consumption habits, persistent inflation and the increase in popularity of the second-hand market, combined with an increase in production costs.” justifies in writing the manufacturer that has been in economic difficulties for five years.
Staff cuts
Unfortunately, Rautureau Apple Shoes is not the only textile company made in France to revise the size of its teams. The French leader in socks and medical compression stockings, Sigvaris, announced for the first time in its history that it would implement a PES. It will concern a maximum of 27 employees (out of 700 employees in France and a turnover of 100 million euros) and is part of the wider framework of the deployment of a ” competitiveness plan “. Sigvaris says it has to reduce its costs and improve its competitiveness to find a certain economic base, which has three factories in the Loire and in Huningue in Alsace.
“We have to face two unfavorable trends. On the one hand, production costs that have increased dramatically with energy, raw materials, wages, etc. On the other, the reimbursement bases of Social Security that have not changed since the 1984 and which, on the contrary, will be reduced by 2% at the end of the year and by another 2% for the following year as part of the national objectives to reduce health spending”regrets Sandrine Maillard, general manager of Sigvaris France.
However, Sigvaris France wants to maintain its “made in France” positioning and claims to reject any desire to relocate. Therefore, the manufacturer will continue to launch its investment plan of 14 million euros announced in 2021. It promises to soon unveil a new industrial process that should. “significantly improve the company’s competitiveness”. The company will also accelerate in the subject of innovation to diversify and strengthen its premium ranges, generating more margins.
“The turnover is not there”
In another sector, the Catalan textile factory The canvases of the sun – founded in Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans (Pyrénées-Orientales) in 1837 – also relies on innovation to relaunch itself. The company has just completed the recruitment of a new artistic director. Since the beginning of October, Les Toiles du Soleil (25 employees, 2 million euros of turnover) have been placed in restitution. to protect the company”, underlines Stéphane Torck, co-founder of JCST Holding.
However, this entity has been the property of Gardois JCST Holding for only two years and thus complements the brands already in the possession of the group in terms of decoration: Athezza, Maison Pichon and SOME Slow Concept.
“The French economic situation is complicated and in the decoration sector, the market has not kept up with the increase in prices with inflation, decipher the head. Our strategy is that of international development: we recreated the license in Japan, we established in South Korea, Taiwan and Shanghai, Qatar and Saudi Arabia in 2025. But the turnover is not there and we need time. »
In addition, the brand has closed its own outlet in Paris, but still has a franchise store in Montpellier. ” We are thinking of bringing in a new shareholder because if the company does not grow, it is doomed to disappear or to be bought by Chinese or American predators.” fears Stéphane Torck.
At the same time, some are already doomed to disappear, such as the Nantesan start-up Ankore, which from 2020 offers a range of recycled clothes, manufactured in France, by several French subcontractors, but also Portuguese partners. ” In 2023, the trend towards more responsible consumption has fallen completely. Small French, ethical and independent brands are closing their doors one after the other, to the indifference of the public authorities. Because nothing is done to stop fast fashion. Although it cuts jobs in France and Europe (…) The French textile industry is slowly dying », testifies Romain Durand, the founder of Ankore.
